The old town of Sokolac – Brinje

It often happens that we put off simple, easily achievable things in life precisely because we think we can do them easily and at any time. Visiting Brinje falls into that category. The fortress is hard to miss from the motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia, and every time we would remark that one day we really must go and see it. And that “one day” finally came, once we had seriously made up our minds.

Brinje is first mentioned at the beginning of the 14th century, and at the start of the 15th the Frankopan princes of Krk raised a fortress known as Sokolac on a rise in the middle of the village. Sokolac remained in Frankopan hands until it was absorbed into the Military Frontier, the defensive line formed as a barrier against the Ottoman conquests.

It is a ruin with a great deal of potential, set in beautiful countryside and certainly worth a visit.

The grounds around the fortress have been nicely laid out. A lit walkway, a children’s playground at the foot of the hill, even a charging station for electric bikes. All of it gives the outer parts of the fortress the feel of a town park.

On the other, southern side that feel disappears and gives way to something entirely unexpected – a Scottish one (?!?). On the low hills to the south, the meadows surrounding the remains of the fortress and the sheep grazing on them put you more in mind of some Scottish landscape. It is exactly this sort of thing that gives travel its extra charm, because you are never sure what you will come across.

Sokolac fortress is undergoing restoration, and the part furthest along is the chapel of the Holy Trinity, which forms part of the complex. The chapel looks very impressive.

It was closed during our visit, and judging by the scant information we found online there is a small museum display inside. Through the gap under the threshold we managed to photograph part of the interior.

Its structural and decorative detail delighted us. The arches around the door and the stone ornament on the south-facing windows are evidence of the high building standards of the day. The beauty of the chapel hints at the former grandeur of the whole complex, which once dominated the skyline of this area.

The ruins of the rest of the fortress are just that – ruins. Judging by the remains of protective sheeting and building materials, it is clear that nothing serious has been done here for a long time, and that the restoration will probably last as long as it does with other similar buildings across Croatia – forever.

The restored chapel of the Holy Trinity gives hope that the whole fortress will one day shine in its full glory!