Tulove grede – the Majstorska cesta to the top of the world

A common feature of our mountains are the rock formations, towers and pillars of various shapes and sizes. Bijele and Samarske stijene, and the Hajdučki, Rožanski and Dabarski kukovi are just some of the most beloved among hikers. To the wider public, the best known are certainly the Tulove grede, which rise majestically above the southern entrance to the Sveti Rok tunnel.

A fascination with the Tulove grede and the desire to climb them have always been there, but for a long time they were shrouded in an aura of dangerous terrain because of mines left over from the Homeland War. The demining process opened them up to visitors, but the practice of sticking to the marked and well-trodden trails during the ascent has remained.

Majstorska cesta

To reach the foot of the Tulove grede, you turn off the main road onto the legendary Majstorska cesta (the “Master Road”). You can reach it both from the south, coming from the direction of Obrovac, and from the north, using the Sv. Rok exit off the motorway. Many people think it got its name because it demands masterly driving skills to conquer, but it is quite the opposite. Travelling from the interior was once a long and difficult undertaking. The Majstorska cesta was built in the first half of the 19th century, during Austro-Hungarian times, as an answer to those harsh conditions, in order to make the journey easier and shorter. Its design and execution were masterful, ahead of their time, which is where its name comes from. The road is a little over 38 km long, and in its gradients and engineering solutions it satisfies even modern road-building standards. Because of the difficult terrain it passes through, its construction cost a fortune. According to legend, the project’s supervisor Josip Knežić answered the workers’ constant complaints with an offer to pay for every kilogram of excavated stone with an equal weight in gold.

Today the road is one of the most beautiful panoramic roads in Croatia and is protected by the Ministry of Culture as a cultural and historical heritage site. For the most part it is a gravel road and so it is prone to damage from water torrents, but it is well maintained and passable for all vehicles. It is a real treat for cyclists and motorcyclists too, because it offers a first-class adventure experience. The landscapes it passes through are spectacular and rarely seen anywhere else in the world. Coming from the north, the road passes through a forested area that, at the Mali Alan pass, transforms into a karst landscape. It is a textbook example of the karst phenomenon and grassy dells, so every now and then we would stop, get out and enjoy the scenery. As you draw closer, with every metre, the sight of the Tule inspires awe.

On the final third of the approach to the Tulove grede from the Mali Alan pass, there is a side track on the right that leads towards Libinjska kosa, from where beautiful views open up and where the starting point for the ascent of Sveto brdo begins. But more about that in one of our future articles 🙂

Tulove grede – a world of mythical creatures

All sorts of legends about the Tulove grede circulated among the people. It was believed that fairies dwelled up there, that dragons hatched among the rocks, and that this was the home of the Black Queen. Today people are more wary of the horned vipers, of which there are reportedly quite a few up there. Since we visited in mid-December, it was cold enough that we didn’t run into a single one, but you should always be careful about where you step, where you sit, and where you grab hold with your hands during the ascent. Besides the already mentioned mines, a warning is also due about the weather conditions. As everywhere in the mountains, the weather can turn quickly, so all the meteorologists’ warnings should be taken seriously. More than once it has happened right here that careless day-trippers get stuck in the ice under the gusts of a hurricane-force Bura, when it had been fine and sunny as they set out.

The ascent starts from the parking area next to a stone-built Bura shelter and is relatively easy. The trail runs through a grassy area on the northern side, passing by rocks of interesting shapes. The continuous gradient of 20-30% can leave those in poorer shape breathless, but each time you stop and look back, as a reward, ever wider vistas of the sea and the expanses of Velebit open up, while the stone pillars ahead of you are motivation to even quicken your pace. After some 1 km of ascent and 190 m of elevation gain, you enter a stone gallery/amphitheatre. No photographs can prepare you for that sight; you simply have to experience it. It is perfectly clear why people ascribed mythical connotations to this place.

Through the clefts in the rocks, spectacular views open up towards the sea, the Zrmanja and the Zadar hinterland. Whichever rock you choose, it is perfect for contemplation. This is an ideal spot to rest before continuing. For the onward journey to the summit you will need a little courage and agility, because the climb up the cliffs requires the use of your hands. It is not far to the top, only some 300-odd metres and perhaps 20 m of elevation, but this is certainly the harder and more challenging part of the ascent, and if you lack the physical fitness and hiking experience, you would do better to stay and enjoy the amphitheatre. When you set foot on the summit, a spectacular view opens up in every direction. If the ascent hasn’t left you breathless, the view certainly will! You feel as if you are on top of the world.

Churches

Right below the Tulove grede, on the way towards the sea, there is a chapel commemorating the Croatian police officer Damir Tomljanović Gavran, commander of the Tigrovi (Tigers) unit, who laid down his life on the slopes of Velebit during the Homeland War.

At the foot of the Tulove grede, on a rocky winding plateau called Podprag, in 1832 Emperor Franz II had the church of St. Francis built. In its architecture it stands out from the typical little churches around Dalmatia, and it reminded us of some of Meštrović’s creations. Opposite it are the remains of an old inn that was once used by travellers passing through. Nearby is also the grave of the constable (a gendarme!?) Francesco Fracasso. The plaque states that he died in a fight with 22 highway robbers.

Native Americans on Velebit

The scenery of the Tulove grede was once used for filming movies about the Native American chief Winnetou. On the Bura shelter you can see a plaque with photographs of scenes from that popular German series. This screen adaptation of the books of the legendary Karl May was also filmed at many other locations around Velebit, the Zrmanja canyon, Paklenica, Krka, Plitvice, the Cetina, Omiš, Platak and so on. In Germany it is considered the most-watched series of all time, and it was made in co-production with Jadran Film from Zagreb.