Bojin Kuk – Paklenica National Park

Several hiking trails lead up to Bojin kuk (1110 m). This is probably the shortest and easiest of them. For the ascent itself there are two main routes — the southern one, steeper, climbing with the aid of cables, and the other, the western (Bablji) route, which is easier and has no cables, but which is also not for everyone. In principle the trail could be graded as medium in difficulty, but one section of the ascent is a bit steeper and requires the use of the hands, and if the rocks are wet or if there are traces of ice, even this western route can be extremely dangerous and perilous. For that reason we gave it a rating of “difficult” in order to warn people of its seriousness.

However, even simply reaching the meadow at the foot of Bojin kuk is an extraordinary experience. The trail is neither long nor difficult, so that too is an excellent choice, especially for those disinclined to climb the kukovi (rock pinnacles).

When you set off along the narrow asphalt road from Starigrad towards Veliko Rujno, the plateau on Velebit from which this hiking trail begins, a “fireworks display” of rocky formations (kukovi) begins — so randomly scattered that they add an extra dose of ruggedness to an already rugged landscape. As you climb, there are more and more of them, and the culmination of that “fireworks display” is the Bojinac area with Bojin kuk at its top. Reaching Bojin kuk is that moment in the fireworks when it is at its fiercest and loudest, when the entire arsenal at your disposal is unleashed at once.
But let us take things in order.

In Starigrad you need to turn off the Jadranska magistrala (coastal highway) following the sign for Veliko Rujno. The first part of the road leads through the town itself, where the narrow lanes form a veritable labyrinth. At the end of that labyrinth you emerge onto a mountain road that continues uphill through picturesque scenery, offering on one side a beautiful view of the sea and the island of Pag, and on the other of the mostly grass-covered karst. When planning, you should by no means underestimate the travel-time information suggested by your navigation, because although it is only about 13 kilometres, the last 7 kilometres are a gravel road on which you will need a little more time. The road is relatively well maintained. Here and there is the odd pothole, and in places the stones are sharp and rough, but even lower cars should not have any major problems. You should certainly be careful, but anyone who has driven down into the Čikola canyon on the gravel road from the west will find this a breeze.

Veliko Rujno is a plateau at some 900 m above sea level. It is mostly grassy, dotted here and there with small groves, livestock pens, and a few farmsteads with mountain cottages.

Following the road you came in on, you will arrive in front of the church, where you can leave the car and where the hiking trails begin.

The first part of the trail leads across a meadow before very quickly entering a grove, after which the climb up the first hill begins. Fortunately, Bojin kuk does not lie beyond seven mountains, but only beyond two. Although at the first viewpoint above Starigrad we were met by an exceptionally strong Bura, and were sceptical about pulling off the ascent, up here the situation was significantly different. Although the air was sharp with a moderate Bura on the northern sides of the climb, every time we came out onto the southern, sunlit side, the conditions were ideal.

After crossing the second hill, you enter a fairyland through a rocky passage. That was our first association. Through a smallish wood there follows a descent towards the meadow at the foot of Bojin kuk. On all sides we are surrounded by kukovi of various sizes and the landscape looks magical.

At the edge of the meadow there is a small spring in the rock, which after a prolonged drought was barely dripping.

Bojinac is so beautiful that the boundaries of Paklenica National Park were extended further to the west in order to include it!

The climb up Bojin kuk starts off steep and fun right away. This type of ascent is my favourite. After that first steep stretch you come to a field of rocky fissures, where you have to take care not to fall into them. Once you round the first ridge, the landscape becomes even wilder. You find yourself in an “amphitheatre” of kukovi! From there the steepness gradually increases, leading through a rocky gorge towards the summit. In one section the slope is so steep that you have to use your hands to climb. That part is perhaps some 20 metres long and requires caution. After that section the climb is still steep, but more in a stepped manner. In one part there is also some scree.

When you come out on top, the views open up towards the east, the sea, and the west. However, that is not the highest point. It lies to the northeast, and reaching it takes another couple of minutes of climbing. From there an unobstructed view extends in all directions. In the distance you can also see the starting point in front of the church in Veliko Rujno. The relief below is exceptionally interesting. Immediately below to the south, the well-known Jagin kuk stands out in shape, and only when you see the trees beside it do you realise the height you are at and just how large all those stone sculptures are that from the top seem like miniatures to you.