Across Perun: From St. George to St. George

Travelling around Croatia, one gets the impression that folk imagination was truly abundant when it came to naming places and mountain peaks. However, once you set foot on those peaks, that same imagination seems to have evaporated under the influence of the thin air, or to have been left behind at their foot. Indeed, every other little church is dedicated to St. George. And so this trail, too, leads from one St. George to another.

Perun, once known among the locals as Poljička planina, stretches between Omiš and Split. In ancient times it formed the southern boundary of the Poljica Republic, and along its entire length it abounds in magnificent viewpoints and old little churches. It takes its name from the Old Slavic god Perun, the thunderer. It was believed that wherever Perun struck with his thunderbolt, an iris (perunika) would sprout.

We have already written about St. Maximus, and this time we set off from St. George above Gornja Podstrana to the “second” St. George that towers over Strožanac, one of Split’s eastern suburbs, from where perhaps the most beautiful view of Split and its surroundings opens up.

The first part of the trail starts right from the village itself, Gornja Podstrana. From there you have to climb to the top of the hill on which the “first” St. George stands. This stretch of the trail is lined with Stations of the Cross and is the one “more serious” ascent on our route, where over 600 m of distance you climb 100 m of elevation. The trail is otherwise undemanding and very pleasant for all age groups.

Upon reaching the little church, which sits at some 450 m above sea level, a fantastic view opens up over both the sea and the hinterland. The church itself has a special charm, partly thanks to its facade and partly thanks to the expanse of the plateau that surrounds it.

From there we headed west along the very top of Perun. We are surrounded by grassy rocky terrain, and the trail is well marked and easy, without any major slopes. After less than 1 km you reach the marked Križ peak (533 m). This is the dominant peak on this part of Perun (and the second highest on Perun overall), and from it a beautiful view opens up in all directions. In the distance you can also see our destination, and behind it Split.

With an easy stroll we cover the next 2.5 km and arrive at the destination – the “second” St. George. The little church is open and inside you can sign the visitors’ book. In front of it is an improvised bench that is perfect for enjoying the view of Split and its surroundings.

This is certainly one of the special places around Split worth visiting. It can be reached from several directions. Those more inclined to adventure also have a via ferrata on the southern side of the ridge. The trail we took is ideal for all ages and levels of fitness. It is easy, yet at the same time very attractive.