Badnjevica (Suvaja) Canyon

The interior of Dalmatia hides several canyons that most people have never heard of. If you asked an average person to name a few, they would probably think of the Cetina, the Krka, and perhaps the Zrmanja. And most of those who could name them have certainly never been to the deeper parts of those canyons — at best, only to the area of Skradinski buk and the hinterland of Omiš.

Badnjevica Canyon is one of the lesser-known ones. It is located in the Imotska krajina region and connects Ričice and Proložac.

Through it flows the Suvaja river, part of the complex course of a karst sinking river that takes on a new name after every spring — nine in all! Further on, in Imotski, it is known as the Vrljika, and in Bosnia and Herzegovina it continues as the Tihaljina, then the Mlade, and finally flows into the Neretva as the Trebižat.

The canyon is one of the most spectacular we have ever seen, and it really is a shame that it is not better known to the wider public.

We first tried to walk it five years ago, but had to give up due to a sudden rain. That is when these photos were taken, with lusher vegetation and more vivid colours.

This time, we set out in late autumn. The colours in the photos are more muted, almost wintery. The weather was clear, and the Bura wind followed us relentlessly the entire way. Although the route can also be done in reverse, we started the walk from the Ričice side, right after the dam, below Zeleno jezero (the “Green Lake”), which we have written about previously.

We thought a lot about how to rate the trail’s difficulty. Although we considered rating it as moderately difficult, in the end we still gave it a “hard” rating. The trail is not particularly long, but parts of it pass through quite rough terrain. In several places hands are required, on one section there is a cable, and in a couple of spots we came across preparations for installing one. If we add to that an elevation difference of over 400 m…

The main reason the trail was rated as hard is that its first part is deceptive. There you will come across a meadow with football goals, benches, a fenced barbecue pit… Essentially a typical “picnic” spot.

We know that families with children come here, and after some recreation on the meadow they head off for an easy walk through the forest…

Badnjevica Canyon, or Suvaje, is one of the most spectacular in Croatia — and beyond!

If you plan to do the trail as a loop, after 900 m of easy walking you need to cross the Suvaja over a fallen tree. The tree is located a few dozen metres before the old tree that snapped!

The cable installed there to help you cross is also deceptive. It is quite slack and works well if you brace against it. But if you lose your balance and have to use it to “hang” toward the opposite side, it is so slack that you will certainly end up in the river.

This section alone is not for younger children, so if you want to see a truly special place without exposing yourself to any danger, continue without crossing the river for another hundred metres or so. You will reach an old dam that offers an extraordinary view into the narrowest part of the canyon!

If you are going without children and have good hiking boots, cross to the other side on the fallen tree, and you can pass by the dam on the way back.

From here the trail turns sharply uphill! An ascent of almost 200 m in elevation awaits you in a very short distance. The gradient in places is over 50%.

When you reach the top of the canyon, you will see a picturesque meadow, and it will seem to you that the worst is behind you. Deceptive again! The meadow is in fact a grass-covered plateau full of sharp rocks.

After some time, we again approach the edge of the canyon. The views are spectacular!

The terrain is quite rough, demands concentration, and eats up a lot of time. As much as we stopped, photographed, and admired every new view on the first part of the trail, on terrain like this it becomes clear to us that the 4 hours stated on the sign at the start of the trail is a very optimistic estimate.

We had spotted Badnjevica fortress from afar. Hoping that the terrain would become easier, after 2.7 km we finally reach the fortress itself.

The fortress was built on the most inaccessible part of the canyon. It was constructed by Duke Stjepan Kosača at the end of the 14th and the beginning of the 15th century. Later it fell into the hands of the Ottoman conquerors, after which it lost its importance. Today it is listed as a protected cultural property, but is quite neglected.

This is not just one fortress, but an entire fortification system spread between rocky peaks. You reach the upper tower by going around it from the north side and climbing up from the east and south.

Nearby we finally find a sheltered spot on the edge of the cliff, where we decide to stop for our marenda (a Dalmatian mid-morning meal). The view is incredible!

After the last in the line of fortification remains, we descend along the trail into the forest. The terrain finally becomes gentle, and we hurry on in a race against time. The day is short, and we are only halfway along the trail!

After a short rest at a nicely arranged rest stop, we begin the climb up the eastern side of the canyon. When we had looked at this trail from the other side, it seemed quite a bit easier.

Our estimate proved correct. Although there was a fair amount of climbing and descending, and in a couple of places we noticed preparations for a cable, the trail is significantly easier, and it took us much less time to get back.

The trail runs along the middle of the canyon’s height and has no rough terrain. In a couple of places we come across stone steps. In one section they are even carved into the rock itself.

The views are spectacular the entire time!

In the end, we managed to reach the previously mentioned dam before dark — a spot you can also walk to with children, without having to cross the river. Photos cannot faithfully convey this wonder of nature!