Cape Kamenjak

Cape Kamenjak is perhaps the most beautiful cape in Croatia and certainly one of those special places that have to be seen and experienced in person. It lies on the very southern tip of Istria below Pula, by the village of Premantura.

Measured from the barrier at the entrance, not far from the last houses of Premantura, to the southernmost point of the cape, the peninsula is some 3.5 km long and varies in width from 0.5 to 1.5 km. That is Donji Kamenjak (Lower Kamenjak). The upper one is larger still and holds the whole settlement of Premantura, beginning at the village of Volme (Banjole). It is part of the municipality of Medulin and falls within a protected area that covers Gornji Kamenjak, Donji Kamenjak and the Medulin archipelago. This article is about Donji Kamenjak.

Although we set off on foot from Premantura and covered some 12 km of a circular route, only the section that begins with the “In the Tracks of the Dinosaurs” educational trail is marked on the map; it follows the western edge of the peninsula along the sea, through all the coves, as far as Mala and Velika Kolumbarica, and then comes back through the middle of the peninsula to close the loop.

At the height of the season the crowds here are unbearable, so it is better to plan a visit at some other time.
Out of season there is no charge at the barrier. You can also leave the car before the barrier, in the car park here: 44.7975855646234, 13.906449922007798. Those who are not keen on walking can, once past the barrier, drive very close to most of the coves, and for the great majority of visitors the final destination is the legendary Safari bar above the cove of Mala Kolumbarica, where there is a large car park.

Rocky coast, beaches, trails, vegetation

Kamenjak is known for its highly dramatic rocky coast, which is extremely varied; it is impossible to remain indifferent to all the variations of rock slabs and layers above the sea and in it.

That does not mean beach lovers go short. On the contrary, there are numerous coves with beautiful pebble beaches, and the sea is crystal clear. Some of them can be reached by car, while others are a little harder to get to.

Besides the rocky coast and the beaches, there are countless walking and cycling trails woven into a veritable labyrinth that runs through pine woods, fields, open heath and stretches of low scrub.

The vegetation is especially varied, which makes the whole landscape very dynamic.

The “In the Tracks of the Dinosaurs” educational trail

This trail is right at the start of Donji Kamenjak. Its main attraction is the fossilised dinosaur footprints, pressed into the rock slabs by the sea in the cove of Pinižule millions of years ago. Twelve of them have been discovered, and 700 m of educational trail lead to them, lined with a number of information boards and dinosaur models.

The footprints themselves are quite hard to make out. They are sometimes marked with chalk for filming, but otherwise they are not marked at all.

Besides Kamenjak, there are footprints on the Brijuni islands, on the islet of Fenoliga, the richest site of dinosaur footprints in Europe, lying off the south-western shore of Kamenjak, and elsewhere across Istria. The islet of Fenoliga is itself most unusual, with a green centre and a very distinctive rocky rim, as though it were the work of some artist.

Safari bar

We are not given to promoting private businesses of any kind, but the Safari bar, a cult spot with an interesting concept, perfectly woven into the landscape of Kamenjak, is something we have to mention.

Behind it lies a spacious car park, and in front of it the most special place on this special peninsula – Mala Kolumbarica.

Mala and Velika Kolumbarica

Mala and Velika Kolumbarica are two coves at the tip of Kamenjak facing south-west. The smaller one is right in front of the Safari bar, and the larger one about a hundred metres further on.

The beauty of this natural phenomenon is hard to convey in photographs and words. To travel around Croatia and not experience this place is an unforgivable omission.