SkyWalk Biokovo

When we talk about hard-to-reach attractions in Croatia, the first thought might be one of the more difficult crags that require climbing skills, or some rare waterfall that only appears after heavy rains, or the ascent of one of the steeper open-sea islands. Few would think of a heavily publicised, car-accessible attraction such as the so-called Skywalk or Nebeska šetnica (“Sky Walk”) on Biokovo.

It is a semicircular glass platform mounted on a steel structure in the Ravna Vlaška area (1228 m), where you walk above the abyss, marvelling at it through the glass floor. For us, this turned out to be one of the most inaccessible attractions in Croatia.

Attempt one

My father wanted us to go to Sv. Jure, the peak of Biokovo. I have been up there many times and I am not hard to persuade for one more hike, because I always gladly return to Biokovo. It was the autumn of 2020. The Skywalk had opened in the summer, a couple of months earlier. I thought it would be nice, since we were already going up, to stop by and take a look at it too. I am not a fan of things that get a lot of media attention, but I had never walked on glass above a precipice, so why not.

The day was beautiful. Full of expectation, we drove up to the entrance of Biokovo Nature Park. And then, a bitter disappointment. In front of the entrance we were greeted by a parking lot packed with cars, and those who had failed to find a spot were waiting in a queue on the coastal highway (!?!). By a rough estimate, 50 – 60 cars of nervous people. The road to Sv. Jure is a narrow mountain road. The spots where you can pass an oncoming car above the precipice are more a matter of luck than of any order. How would all those cars get up and back? I asked the employee at the barrier how long the wait was, and the answer was 5 – 6 hours. We turned around and headed for Makarska. Later we even read that while desperate people wait in the heat to get in, the Park staff let organised tours from Makarska — which charge a hefty fee — jump the queue. Why does that not surprise us?

An organisational disaster typical of Croatia turned what should have been an excellent tourist product into a nightmare. What else could be expected in a country full of temporary solutions and improvisations, where the ad hoc approach is the modus operandi. Just recall the water restrictions at the height of the tourist season in an otherwise well-managed Istria, and we are the country richest in water in Europe. There are countless examples, and something always catches us off guard, because no one thinks things through in advance, nor does anything happen according to a plan.

Attempt two

We somehow gave up on the Skywalk, because we were aware that weekends were out of the question, and the season is to be avoided at all costs. That leaves weekdays, but the park closes sometime in the afternoon. Work, school shifts… Mission impossible.

It was already the end of November 2021. The weather was ideal, sunny, no wind, a weekend to catch one of Biokovo’s peaks before the first snow. The choice fell on Vošac. We checked the Park’s website — the Park was not officially open, which in plain terms means that tickets are not charged. Great!

Driving towards Vošac, we caught sight of that elusive Skywalk too. We decided to stop and take a look. The walkway was covered with netting, so we could only view it from the side. Interesting, nicely designed, but Vošac was calling us, so we did not linger. Once you climb up to Vošac, all the Skywalks of this world are second class. Maybe even third.

Attempt three

Spring was already in full swing, maybe the Park is open? Maybe the hordes of foreign tourists are not yet queuing to get into the Park? I went to the Park’s website. Unfortunately, the park was closed, because they were repairing the road. It would be closed all the way up to the peak of the season. Everything was turned upside down. Since when did our mountains become a summer destination? Well, at least this thing with the road sounded promising. Maybe the cars will now be able to pass each other? OK, we will wait for autumn. Third time lucky failed us this time 🙂

Attempt four

The first day of autumn. The weather ideal. The Skywalk? Have we already become obsessive? Do we really need the most commercial of all tourist products in our life? OK, we will combine it with a couple of other things, so we can fool ourselves that we are not going there for its sake.

On the Park’s website there is a notice that entry is only possible with a ticket purchased online in advance. Good thing we took a look at the website! Every hour 25 cars are let in. That is exactly how many car reservations are offered for each hour, and once all the reservations for a given slot are taken, it disappears from the offer. Tickets are otherwise paid for per number of people. It seems someone has started thinking about organisation! If we connect this with the story about the roadworks, it sounds promising. Mass tourism on a conveyor belt, but at least organised now, it seems. Haven’t Stiniva and the Blue Cave long since become like that too?

The tickets were bought, we arrived at the barrier, 25 cars set off exactly according to plan. The road widenings are very rare at first, but from Vrata Biokova they become more frequent. If the return is well planned, this could actually work. Even before setting off it was clear to us that 25 cars would create a stampede, so we did not even count on solo photography. That too is not impossible with a little patience and luck, but keep your expectations within reasonable limits.

At first everyone is on the walkway. For some, the view through the glass floor causes nausea, for others fear. The former drop out of the next round. Some don’t even dare step onto the platform, but photograph it from a distance. Wise!

Many leave for the souvenir shop after the first round, or simply scatter around the parking lot. If you are patient enough, you might get the chance to take a solo photo or two. If you want to increase your chances of that, choose some obscure time slots, early in the morning or just before closing, perhaps on a weekday.

What does it feel like?

As we mentioned, people experience walking above the abyss differently. In any case, it is interesting. The view from up there is beautiful. If you are not used to such views or have not seen better, the view could be described as spectacular. If you want something even better and more beautiful, Vošac is not far, and Jure will add yet another dimension.

Was it worth all the effort?

It is hard to answer with a yes or no. The Skywalk is definitely an interesting experience. It is nicely designed and offers a unique perspective. There are few places where you can walk “on air”, especially not in such an attractive setting. Those accustomed to the wonders of nature that are a little less accessible will not be blown away, and the crowds will probably make them nervous. For those whose greatest reach so far has been the top of Marjan or Sljeme, it will probably stir up excitement.

How to get there?

At the eastern exit (or entrance) of Makarska, turn uphill onto the old road towards Vrgorac. You will need 15 min (8.5 km) of driving to reach the entrance of Biokovo Nature Park. With online tickets purchased in advance for the exact entry time slot, go through the barrier and continue along the mountain road onto Biokovo. The drive from the barrier to the Skywalk takes about 20 min.