St. Mary on Mljet – An Island Within an Island

There are not many countries in the world blessed with so many islands in such a small space as Croatia. Over 1,200 islands! And then, as if that weren’t enough, some of them have lakes on them, which in turn have their own islands(!?!). Islands on islands!

Saint Mary (Sveta Marija) is precisely one such “island on an island.”

Mljet has two saltwater lakes – the Great Lake (Veliko jezero) and the Small Lake (Malo jezero). They are part of the Mljet National Park and are located on the western side of the island. Mljet has other water surfaces, but only these two hold lake status. In summer, the water temperature in the lakes, especially in the Small Lake, is always a few degrees higher than in the sea, making them a favorite for swimming when the sea hasn’t warmed up enough yet. The lakes are connected by a 2 m wide and 40 m long channel crossed by the Small Bridge (Mali most), where a water current subject to tidal changes flows through. Being on Mljet and not floating with the current from one lake to the other is, to say the least, an incomplete visit. We spent the entire morning drifting down the current!

The lakes are surrounded by beautiful nature and dense pine forests, with a walking path around them that can also be traversed by bicycle.

The islet of Saint Mary is located on the Great Lake, and park boats run to it every hour, sometimes even more frequently. The ride is short, and transport is included in the price of the national park ticket. For adults, this was around 150 HRK in high season and 70 HRK in the off-season. For children under 8, entry is free, while for older children, it was 50 HRK in season and 35 HRK off-season (2022 prices). The entrance to the national park is just before the village of Goveđari, and the lakes can be reached via hiking trails from several directions.

Boats depart from the piers (42.77522689231893, 17.364043966201464) and from the Small Bridge (Mali most) at the junction of the two lakes (42.78275140662154, 17.3517098571555).

We left our car here: 42.78534918137977, 17.35403544113842, descended the path via Mala Poma to the Small Lake, walked along the lake to the Small Bridge, and boarded the boat there.

The islet of Saint Mary is not large—about 200 m long and 120 m wide. It houses a Benedictine monastery with the Church of St. Mary dating back to the 12th century. Both buildings were originally constructed in the Romanesque style but were renovated and expanded during the Renaissance.

The visit to the church was particularly moving. We were alone during our visit. The church exudes the spirit of bygone times, and the atmosphere was enhanced by Gregorian chants playing through the speakers.

A promenade runs around the island, passing viewpoints, donkey shelters, and other attractions. The entire island is filled with a special spirit. There weren’t many tourists during our visit, which likely influenced the overall impression. In any case, visiting the national park and the islet of Saint Mary is a truly unique experience.