Hiking Mosor: The Trail to the Mountain Hut

Mosor has the status of a cult mountain for Split and its surroundings. I know quite a few people who go up into the mountains only once or twice a year. If you suggest hiking to them, it goes without saying that it means a trip to Mosor. For the people of Split, Mosor is more than just a mountain!

For most day-trippers coming to Mosor, the mountain lodge is the main destination. That is why, in our first article about Mosor, we decided to write about precisely this ascent.

We have been on Mosor countless times, but ever since we launched this project, we have been putting off writing about it. Why? In 2017, the area around Split was struck by an apocalyptic fire that devastated more than 4,500 hectares. Numerous suburban settlements were threatened. The hardest hit were Žrnovnica, Srinjine, Sitno Donje and Gornje, Strožanac, Podstrana and Kučine, and the fire seriously threatened Split’s eastern suburbs. The blaze also consumed huge swathes of forest on Mosor, leaving long-lasting scars. Mosor has not been the same since, and every visit there brings back memories of that grim event. Even so, Mosor is magnificent in spite of it all, and it would be unfair not to write anything about it on our portal.

Although Mosor can be approached from various directions, the main starting point is from Sitno Gornje. The road that leads up via Žrnovnica or Srinjine is excellent. Apart from a few narrow sections that have become a tourist attraction in their own right, it is full-width. There is also a narrower road from the direction of Gata via Dubrava.

When the road brings you to the very foot of the hill, the main parking lot is on the left. It is always a good idea to set off early, because the lot fills up quickly, especially on weekends in fine weather. For those who arrive later, the option is to look for a spot on the right side around the bus turnaround.

The parking lot sits at 620 m above sea level. Already from here, a spectacular view opens up over Perun hill, Split, and the surroundings.

The ascent from the parking lot begins along an old gravel road heading east. I have never verified this, but locals say the road was built by Austria-Hungary for the needs of a sanatorium for asthma patients that was planned on Mosor. The sanatorium was never built, so the road remained unfinished. It stretches for 1.3 km and today serves as part of a circular hiking trail.

There are several turnoffs from the road heading uphill. We usually take the first one. After the turn, the steepest part of the trail begins, but countless families with children manage it without any trouble.

The ascent eases off near the top, eventually ending at a “saddle” — the Kažela pass. From here a beautiful view opens up to the left over the “Teksas” valley, from which trails continue on toward Lugarnica. Straight uphill, a trail leads to the well-known peaks of Ljubljan and Vickov stup, while the right-hand trail goes toward the lodge. From the lodge there are likewise several trails leading to Ljubljan, Vickov stup, and Veliki Kabal, so everything comes down to how each hiker wants to organize the day.

The ascent toward the lodge again splits in two — to the left through what used to be the forest that burned down in the fire mentioned at the start of the article, and straight ahead to the east. We like to take the route through the former forest. That path is noticeably steeper, so we always used to gauge our off-season fitness on it by how out of breath we got.

All that remains of the forest today is a sea of fallen logs. The pit that was once hidden by the forest and formed a damp oasis on the way to the lodge is now exposed and neglected.

Beyond the “forest,” the view of the lodge opens up. Thanks to the great sacrifice of the firefighters, the lodge and the forest surrounding it remained untouched by the fire.

On the descent toward the lodge, you pass by a couple of springs.

The total time of the ascent to the lodge is about 45 minutes.

The Umberto Girometta mountain lodge was built in 1931. The Italians set it on fire and almost completely tore it down, so it was rebuilt and expanded in 1967. It stands at 868 m a.s.l. It is a beloved gathering spot for day-trippers and hikers. The traditional offering is fažol (bean stew) with sausages and cured meat, along with homemade tea from Mosor herbs.

In and around the lodge it is always cheerful! People mingle and sing. If you notice that the fire in the stove is dying down, do throw in a log so it doesn’t go out. People hang their wet clothes around the stove, and on the lodge’s walls the entire history of mountaineering societies is inscribed. Upstairs there are sleeping berths, and with prior arrangement it is also possible to spend the night here.

By the lodge, or in the meadow below it, you will run into at least one donkey. They are still used today to deliver supplies and materials for the lodge.

In spring and autumn, a favorite place to linger is the large meadow 80 meters below the lodge. The meadow is a popular spot for “picnics” and all kinds of sports. Most day-trippers spend half a day here socializing and resting. With strict precautions, many also opt for a barbecue. A small pond and a little stream lie on the meadow, so the atmosphere of the entire location is very idyllic.

If the ascent to the lodge satisfies your hiking ambitions, there is no reason not to spend the whole day there. If you do crave a bit more physical activity and even some adrenaline, Vickov stup is about a 1:45 h climb from here. More on that in one of our upcoming articles!