Odysseus Cave

Odysseus Cave on Mljet is one of those incredible places that everyone should experience. The sleepiness of the island, the lethargy of Babino Polje—where time seems to have stopped long ago—and the omnipresent view of the open sea, constantly give the impression that you are at the end of the world. A week on Mljet will surely recharge your batteries, and depending on the locations you choose, you will very likely start feeling like Robinson Crusoe.

Odysseus Cave is open from both the land and sea sides. Due to the extreme steepness, the land approach is fenced off with wire and is not suitable for descending. You can enter the cave through the sea entrance either by swimming or by kayak. It is very important to choose a day without wind and large waves; otherwise, you risk the sea slamming you against the cliffs.

The sea entrance has a lower ceiling and is about 15 meters long, after which you enter a “hall” whose ceilings reach very high, with a huge opening toward the land. When you turn around on a sunny day, you can see a beautiful illumination in the sea, similar to the one in the Blue Cave on Biševo. The effect is more pronounced in the Blue Cave due to its enclosed nature, but it is magical here as well and leaves no one indifferent. We entered and exited the cave countless times, and everyone we encountered had a wide smile and that spark of delight in their eyes 🙂

The cliffs under the sea drop sharply toward the bottom, and the entire depth is illuminated by that intense fluorescent light, filled with fish swimming all around you. Every dive toward the exit is an experience you will remember for a lifetime. The illumination effect is most pronounced around noon, as well as a few hours before and after.

There is no gradual entrance into the sea anywhere around the cave. To get into the water, you must jump from one of the rocks. The lowest rock is only about 1 m high, and there is a rope installed to help you climb back up. Those who don’t like jumping can also use the rope to lower themselves into the sea. This might sound intimidating to some, but for any healthy person of average fitness between the ages of 5 and 85, it shouldn’t be a major problem. Those seeking greater challenges have many higher cliffs to jump from, so a visit to the cave can turn into a full day of fun—jumping, swimming in the clearest deep blue sea, and countless entries and exits from the cave. A diving mask is definitely recommended for the full experience.

What makes the experience of this cave even more special is the environment itself. It is very dramatic. The cliffs descend in steps from a height of over 90 m toward the sea, while the view constantly stretches out over the open horizon. Also, despite the fact that there can be a number of people around the cave, it feels relatively isolated on a relatively isolated island. You never get the feeling that you are at a mass tourism site—which is not the case with the Blue Cave, where you are literally on a “conveyor belt.”

How to Get to the Cave?

If you choose the land approach instead of a boat, you should leave your car in Babino Polje on the main road near the supermarket (42.734547216338356, 17.550860302431506).

The path that leads from there to the cliffs and the sea is well-maintained. It passes through olive groves and fields of low vegetation and is relatively flat until it hits the cliffs, where it then descends steeply toward the sea. Even that descent isn’t difficult and would be qualified as “easy.” However, if you are aiming for the midday sun (for that light effect in the cave) and go during the peak heat, the 20-minute light walk from the parking lot can seem quite tough, and the return even tougher. Therefore, our rating for the trail is “moderate” (including the rope section).

It is recommended to wear closed shoes, bring plenty of water, and use sun protection, as there is none around the cave.

On the descent toward the cave, there is an improvised facility that has evolved over the years from a “crate of beer” to a basic catering spot, so a small number of people can find some shade under a tarp or whatever they are using now.

The Legend of Odysseus

In front of Odysseus Cave lies the Ogiran rock, which is completely covered by the sea during high tide or strong southern winds, posing a danger to all ships. According to legend, Odysseus experienced this firsthand, shipwrecking at this very spot. He found refuge in the nearby cave, unaware that it was the cave of the nymph Calypso and that he would remain there for seven full years in her “captivity.”

In Homer’s Odyssey, of all the islands in the Mediterranean, only Mljet fits the description of ancient Ogygia. However, history falsifiers “placed” the cave in Malta without any evidence, purely due to the political interests of that time.

The nymph and the Mediterranean monk seal have long been gone from the cave, so head into this adventure at the “end of the world” without fear, because Mljet is magical!